Among the many designs included within the late Keith Rowley’s e book Woodturning Initiatives was an earring stand, one among which I acquired and gave as a present to my spouse Kim. She has used it usually for almost twenty years. After repeated encouragement from Kim, I made one other one for her utilizing Keith’s instance and e book as a information.
Keith’s design included 4 separate items of wooden: a base, a middle publish, an earring service, and a finial. The finial doubles as a deal with and may also be used as a hoop holder. The 4 components had been joined collectively by turning tenons that match into drilled holes. After making the earring stand utilizing Keith’s technique, I made a decision to make one out of 1 stable piece of wooden. This allowed the grain to align constantly from bottom-to-top and eradicated the necessity to be a part of 4 separate turnings. After making a number of earring stands utilizing this technique, I’ve discovered they’re enjoyable to show and are nicely acquired as presents. My modified design requires altering the challenge’s drilling jig from having a middle pin to having a middle gap.
Put together the Clean
Begin with a seasoned piece of wooden about 3-1/2″ (9cm) sq. and 6″ (15cm) lengthy. Straight-grained wooden ensures the finial is not going to be weakened by crossgrain fibers. With the wooden mounted between a drive middle and a cup-and-point ball-bearing tail middle, use a spindle-roughing gouge to take away the corners and switch a cylinder.
On the underside finish of the clean, flip a spigot to suit a scroll chuck. The spigot is about 1/4″ (6mm) lengthy, barely bigger in diameter than the chuck jaws within the closed place, and roughly matches the form of the jaws. My Vicmarc chuck has dovetail jaws, and an identical spigot is rapidly turned utilizing a skew with the deal with held low in peeling place. The spigot may also be turned with a parting software or a spindle gouge. The within nook ought to be crisp and clear.
After securing the spigot within the scroll chuck, convey the tailstock into place and switch sufficient wooden off the tip of the clean to true it up. This would be the backside of the stand and a barely concave lower ensures the stand will sit on a flat floor with out rocking.
The subsequent step is to create a recess simply giant sufficient for the chuck jaws to broaden into, and 1/8″ to three/16″ (3mm to 5mm) deep. To determine the recess’s diameter, I shut the jaws of the chuck and set a pair of dividers to the gap from the middle of the chuck to the surface of the jaws. Subsequent, with the lathe operating, I put the appropriate leg of the dividers on the middle of the wooden and the left leg on the toolrest and gently press the left leg into the wooden to attain a structure line.
I prefer to take away many of the wooden for the recess utilizing a 1/8″ parting software modified for scraping. The modified software places minimal strain on the clean, decreasing the opportunity of getting a catch that may pull the clean out of the chuck jaws. Whenever you assume you could have turned an satisfactory recess, verify the match of the jaws within the recess with the lathe off. A light-weight lower with a field or pen scraper ranges the floor left by the parting software, and a skew offered as a scraper cuts the dovetail- formed shoulder to match the chuck jaws.
After sanding the underside of the earring stand to its completed floor, the clean is able to be reversed and mounted on the increasing four-jaw chuck to show the rest of the earring stand.
The clean ought to run true and the middle mark on the highest of the clean ought to align with the tailstock middle. If the mark and middle don’t align, flip away the middle gap from the earlier chucking by taking gentle shearing cuts with a spindle gouge. The purpose of a skew establishes a brand new gap that may align with the tail middle. With the tailstock introduced up and tightened, the surface of the clean is rapidly trued with a spindle-roughing gouge.
Modified Parting Instrument
The tip of a parting software is well modified to transform the software to a scraper. Merely use a bench grinder to take away the higher half of the software tip. As soon as floor to form, the software might be sharpened by presenting solely the unmodified decrease half to the grinding wheel, as you’ll a typical parting software. The ensuing software cuts endgrain cleaner and exerts much less drive on the wooden than does a typical parting software.
Create the Earring Service
To mark the placement of the holes that may maintain the earrings, measure about 1-1/2″ (4cm) down from the highest of the clean and draw a structure line. The finial will rise above the earring service, so a whole lot of the wooden on this space must be eliminated. That is rapidly carried out by peeling with a skew chisel, a large parting software, or a Bedan parting software.
I go away a tenon above the structure line that’s simply over 1″ (25mm) diameter, after which taper the tenon from its near-1″ diameter all the way down to barely bigger than the diameter of the tail middle. This taper offers clearance for the chuck of the hand drill.
Uniformly arranging the holes across the rim of the earring service produces a professional-looking stand. It’s potential to realize a uniform structure with some calculations and the lathe’s indexing wheel (assuming it has one), however I’ve designed a steel drill jig that makes this step easy and correct. To make use of the jig, I slide the tailstock away and maintain the drill jig over the finial publish, then rotate the spindle by hand whereas making use of reasonable strain on the jig. This can burnish a light-weight line that transfers the diameter of the middle gap of the drill jig onto the tapered publish and identifies how a lot materials must be eliminated to precisely match—and completely middle—the jig over the finial publish. Utilizing the burnish mark as a information, I take advantage of a large parting software to cut back the decrease part of the publish over which the drill jig will match.
Drill the Holes for the Earrings
Whereas I carry out this subsequent job with an electrical hand drill and the clean on the lathe, it’s also potential to take away the chuck from the lathe and use a drill press. I take away the tailstock, slide the drill jig over the publish, and briefly safe it in place with masking tape. With a 3/32″ (2mm) bit, drill a gap about 1/2″ (13mm) into the wooden.
I press an indexing pin into this primary gap and proceed drilling the remaining holes. The indexing pin is well shifted to a different gap when it will get in the way in which.
After all of the holes are drilled, I draw a line across the outdoors of the drill jig. This line marks the approximate outdoors diameter of the earring service.
Form Earring Service and Heart Put up
With the tailstock introduced up for help, scale back the higher space of the clean to the diameter of the earring service structure line.
Turning from giant to small diameter, take cautious shearing cuts with a 3/8″ (10cm) spindle gouge and start shaping the highest aspect of the earring service, aiming for a barely concave floor.
Outline the realm that may turn into the middle publish by decreasing the diameter of the spindle between the bottom and the underside aspect of the service to about 1″. The waste is rapidly eliminated utilizing peeling cuts with a 3/8″ Bedan parting software.
After eradicating the waste materials from the middle publish, I shift my consideration to the underside of the service. There are two essential tolerances that have to be thought of for many earring wires to hold freely with out binding on the earring service: the service ought to be no thicker than 1/8″ close to the sting the place the holes are drilled, and the middle of the holes ought to be not more than 3/16″ from the surface fringe of the service.
After defining the tolerances close to the surface fringe of the service, I focus my efforts on the bottom and the transition between the bottom and the middle publish.
Then I transfer to remaining shaping of the middle publish.
Clear out the Holes and Sand
Previous to finishing the finial however after the remainder of the piece has been turned, it’s typically essential to wash the frayed wooden fibers hiding within the 3/32″ earring holes. That is greatest carried out with a 3/32″ drill bit secured in a hand-held drill chuck or a small deal with. I merely insert the bit into the holes and twist the chuck or deal with by hand.
Decrease the lathe velocity to reduce warmth build-up from friction whereas sanding. It would be best to protect the high quality particulars you could have labored exhausting to create by sanding rigorously. To keep away from eradicating crisp corners on the prime of coves, roll the abrasive right into a coil or wrap it over (not round!) your finger to suit the curvature of the cove. Use the sting of the abrasive to sand into tight corners.
Form the Finial
The finial is meant to be extra purposeful than aesthetic, because it serves as each a deal with for lifting the earring stand and as a hoop holder. The finial shouldn’t be so small in diameter that it’s fragile, or pointy on the prime so it’s awkward to choose up. Use gentle shearing cuts with a 1/4″ or 3/8″ spindle gouge to refine the finial. Sand the finial whereas there’s nonetheless help from the tail middle. Lastly, separate the highest of the finial from the waste close to the tailstock and gently sand the highest finish.
Apply a End
For a end, I like to make use of a penetrating oil corresponding to Waterlox Unique. I apply the primary coat utilizing a clear rag with the lathe stopped, working the end into the pores of the wooden. Successive coats are most effectively utilized whereas the earring stand is secured within the chuck, however the stand might be eliminated simply, then re-chucked if need-be. I apply end to the underside final, after the challenge is faraway from the chuck.
The earring stand is a helpful merchandise and a challenge that gives good alternatives to apply high quality element turning strategies. The challenge additionally gives the possibility to use primary spindle cuts to realize a delightful design. I hope you take pleasure in making them as a lot as I’ve.
All images by Scott Finlayson.
Kip Christensen is a professor of know-how and engineering schooling who teaches wooden prototyping, furnishings design, and manufacturing at Brigham Younger College. He has a selected curiosity in woodturning schooling and has authored a number of articles and DVDs on the topic. His earring drilling jig is obtainable by contacting Kip.