I spent a little bit of time on the design of the cupboard by laying out all the pieces I need to retailer, roughly arranging them, and seeing how huge the cupboard wanted to be. I used a bit set from MLCS to get an concept of what number of bits could be packed right into a sure space. As soon as I made a decision on the cupboard’s peak, width, and depth, I may discover some lumber to make use of.
I had a bit of 10/4 elm that might work completely for this cupboard. It has a flat sawn orientation and got here from in the direction of the surface of the log. This could permit for a piece that could possibly be resawn to provide me the case sides with some conventional cathedral grain and I may rip the inventory for the doorways from the surface of the board the place the grain could be rift sawn. This may give me clear, straight grain for the entrance dealing with areas.
As an added bonus, which is completely pointless for this construct, I can create a steady grain sample across the case. These boards are bookmatched so if I reduce the case elements from reverse ends of every board, I’ll have a grain wrap across the case.
Subsequent I can get into the case joinery. I’ve chosen mitered by way of dovetails right here which is able to match my handtool cupboard. I reduce the tails at the bandsaw however omit the entrance one.
Again on the bench, I can create the mitered tail by sawing the tail however not chopping into the entrance face. The miter can then be reduce and cleaned up with a paring information.
The tails are transferred to the pin board and the pins are sawn with a handsaw. I’ll then use the bandsaw to take away the majority of the waste earlier than chopping on the scribe line with chisels.
The entrance pin is mitered and cleaned up using a paring information.
With the joinery full, the case could be dry assembled. I like the best way these dovetails give the entrance face of the case a mitered look. We will additionally see how the grain on the entrance edge is straight which is able to match the doorways.
Subsequent up is the again panel. I wished to eliminate some scraps so I’ll use a scrap of 1/2″ plywood and make a customized veneer for it. I had this goofy formed offcut from the guitar clean I made a yr in the past I’ll slice it up into veneers and check out to determine an association for it.
I can up with one thing I used to be proud of; it’s just a little odd trying however I prefer it. I utilized cold press glue to the items and caught them all the way down to the plywood. The meeting is positioned into the vacuum bag to clamp the veneers whereas the glue cured. I additionally veneered the again facet of the panel with some scrap ash left over from my flooring undertaking
To fill within the areas between the veneers, I did a fast epoxy pour. I damned up the perimeters with sheathing tape and combined some resin with a clear hardener so the epoxy wouldn’t acquire any yellow tint. I wished one thing darkish so I added a black powdered pigment and added a bit of micropearl to provide the resin a little bit of iridescence.
As soon as the epoxy cured, the panel was planed to flush all the pieces up and sanded to 800 grit earlier than a few coats of finish had been utilized.
Now that the again panel is completed, I do know it’s last thickness and may reduce the rabbet for it behind the case. As soon as that’s full, the case could be glued up. I used clamps to completely seat the dovetails and a band clamp to verify the miters had been absolutely closed on the entrance.
Subsequent I can add a divider/mounted shelf. That is put in with a stopped sliding dovetail. The dovetail socket is reduce into the case sides ranging from the again and stopping a bit earlier than the entrance. The divider inventory is reduce to the right size and a dovetail could be fashioned on the ends at the router table. I additionally reduce a couple of scrap items to assist dial within the settings earlier than chopping the work piece. This one took 4 tries to get set appropriately which is fairly common.
The divider is ripped to last width to wash up any blowout from the routing operation and the entrance bit is notched so it would lap over the entrance of the socket. The divider can then be glued in place. I used epoxy right here because it is not going to swell the fibers and make the match too tight.
Now we will transfer on to the door. I made a mitered door body and reduce a rabbet on the within again edge which is able to home the glass panel.
The miters are bolstered with a domino and the body could be glued up.
To start out hanging the door, the hinge mortises are reduce into the case.
The body is roughly match to the opening and it’s mortised as effectively for hinges. As soon as the door is hung, we will check out the match and modify as wanted.
With that every one performed, the door could be eliminated and end could be utilized to the case and door.
As soon as the ending is completed, a bit of acrylic is reduce and dropped into the rabbet. That is held in place with some retaining strips that are screwed into the door body.
I made some racks to carry nearly all of the router bits. The 1/4″ bits are housed in 17/64″ holes and the 1/2″ bit are held in 1/2″ holes since I didn’t have a barely outsized drill. The holes aren’t tremendous deep and I added some wax which makes the bits fairly simple to take away.
For bits with equipment, I made easy blocks which maintain the bits and their equipment.
When you’d wish to make your personal show cupboard for what ever it’s you’d wish to retailer and show, I’ve put collectively plans for this undertaking.
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